KC’s Chiffafa House
5 Hilltop Road, Mendham, NJ
Sunday, September 14, 2008
By Ernest Jaeger, Charge de Presse Provencial Honoraire
The invitation to the Garden State’s September event was certainly intriguing. We were invited to dine at the KC Chiffafa House in Mendham, New Jersey, which was named one of the year’s ten best restaurants by the New York Times. The evening would feature not only fine foods by celebrated chef Paul Viggiano but also fine wines selected especially for the evening by Chris Cree, Master of Wine, one of only a score of people to hold that distinction in this country. Among his many projects, Cree owns 56 Degree Wine in Bernardsville, a very well selected collection, featuring superb vintages from many small producers and frequented by many members of our bailliage.
In addition, the evening was hosted by Vice Conseiller Gastronomique Mark Altom and Dame de la Chaine Celia D’Arienzo. Most of the members of our bailliage would follow Altom and D’Arienzo anywhere, most especially a restaurant or wine shop. Finally, the invitation held a mystery; what was the exact meaning of Chiffafa? Attendance at the event would solve the mystery.
On one of those beautiful Northeastern autumn days with clear skies and the leaves the color of chardonnay and claret, we made our way to Mendham, one of the state’s charming colonial towns to be greeted warmly by owner KC Costello, chef Viggiano, and Bailli Robin Jacobs.
The 200 year-old building housing the restaurant was cozy and inviting. Charcuterie selections as well as a Domaine L’Eole Provence Rose 2007 provided a very generous welcome. Almost immediately the mystery of the restaurant’s name was solved as Costello said she took the name from an old Nat King Cole scat lyric, “I want the frim-fram sauce/With the ossum-fay/ And chiffafa on the side.”
Viggiano, whose cooking was recognized very favorably by the New York Times, describes his cooking as “French country cuisine dressed in a push up bra and high heels,” Although this menu was a little more traditional, it still held a number of wonderful surprises.
Among the evenings menu was a succulent roasted woodcock done with a game consomme; classic and silken Another course evoked the spirit of Italy with meltingly tender beef cheeks in the style of the Piedmont, a cured pork jowl that had a nice amount of smoky flavor and luxurious black truffles -- a very nice tribute to the Piedmont and a perfect autumn dish.
Cree’s wine selections were fantastic. Most were from small vineyards in the southern part of France, which use hand-crafted methods. The dry Provencal rose set a festive tone. A dark, deep red Rotier Gaillac Rouge 2005 with nice spice and dark fruit was the perfect escort to the woodcock and the spicy elements of the game consommé. An earthy medium-bodied Chateau Laffitte-Teston Madiran 2004 underscored the many elements of the braised beef cheeks dish. A Francois Pinon Vouvrey Silex Noir 2007, the lone selection from the Loire and one of the region’s best Vouvreys, was rich with citrus and floral notes.
At the end of the evening, Bailli Jacobs brought Costello, Viggiano, Altom, D’Arienzo and Cree for the chapter’s appreciation. She had gifts for all; a Chaine plate for chef, decanter for Cree, Chaine aprons for Altom and D’Arienzo, and delicious memories for members and their guests, “With chiffafa on the side.”
