January 18, 2002 - W. A. Frost
A Winter’s Tale by Robert Cornelius, Vice Counseiller Gastronomique
Photos by Gary Bedsworth
Cave-aged sheep cheese with clover blossom honey
The snowbirds of Minnesota fly south each January, lured by warmer temperatures, sunny beaches, and lush, green golf courses. Those left behind crave a winter break. For the hearty, it's the Saint Paul Winter Carnival, and for a lucky few, it's the Camaraderie of the Table at a gathering of the Chaine des Rotisseurs.
On January 18th, a small group of members and guests from the Minneapolis Bailliage met at W. A. Frost. This respected St. Paul restaurant and bar has the turn-of-the century ambience and charm of an historic building built in 1889, and is the ideal venue for a cozy winter respite.
Brandied bread and butter pudding with cognac Chantilly cream
The remnants of Christmas past were prominent everywhere as hundreds of twinkling lights greeted each arrival. We assembled in the basement wine cellar. Hosting Chef Lenny Russo and Chevalier Robert Cornelius welcomed their guests with bubbling glasses of Prosecco di Valdobbiadene honoring the Chef’s recent marriage in Tuscany. Bountiful trays of Gravlax, Rabbit Pâté and Paddlefish Roe teased our appetites with the promise of good things to come.
The concept for the dinner was to marry the robust flavors of game cookery with classic wines. The small size of the gathering made it possible for Professional du Vin Ted Farrell to select some distinguished wines from the Bailliage cellar that were available to us because there were too few bottles to serve at larger gatherings. The wines were superb, and throughout the meal Chef Russo graciously shared with us his comments on the choices he had made to marry a food course to each wine.
The dinner opened with a fine Rabbit Consommé accompanied by a luscious 1985 Puligny-Montrachet. Consommés have become largely neglected nowadays, because of the time required to prepare them properly, so this one made a good beginning to a wonderful meal. It was followed by courses of Grilled Quail Breast with a 1978 Chambolle-Musigny, and Rack of Wild Boar with a 1989 Chateau Lascombes. The Wild Boar with its sumptuous Glace de Viande and a flavorful Root Vegetable Fricassée was particularly well received.
The dinner concluded with a classic cheese course, Cave-Aged Sheep Cheese paired with an elegant 1970 Chateau Latour, and a dessert of Brandied Bread and Butter Pudding served with a 1990 Barsac.
A sense of warmth and majesty fills the heart and mind after such a meal, with its simple pleasures derived from the willingness of others to share their artistry and their skills. One could tell from the tone of the conversations that members and guests alike were content to be left behind in Minnesota this January.
Menu
Reception
Steelhead Salmon Gravlax with Dill Créme Fraîche
Truffled Pork and Rabbit Pâté with Blackberry Cumberland Sauce
American Paddlefish Roe with Chive Sour Cream
Col Vetoraz “Cartizze” Valdobbiadene Prosecco NV
First Course
Rabbit Consommé with Aromatic Vegetables, Quail Egg and Winter Truffles
Domaine Joseph Drouhin Puligny-Montrachet Côtes-de-Beaune 1985
Second Course
Grilled Quail Breast with Roasted Apple-Forest Mushroom Ragoût
Maison Labouré-Roi Chambolle-Musigny Nuits-Saint-Georges 1978
Third Course
Oven-Roasted Rack of Wild Boar with Preserved Currant Glace de Viande and Root Vegetable Fricassée
Château Lascombes “Grand Cru Classé” Margaux 1989
Cheese Course
Cave-Aged Sheep Cheese with Clover Blossom Honey
Château Latour “Grand Cru Classé” Pauillac 1970
Dessert Course
Brandied Bread and Butter Pudding with Cognac Chantilly Cream
Château Doisy Daëne “Grand Cru Classé” Barsac 1990