April 9, 2000 - Around the World in 50 Years
Minneapolis Bailliage Travels Around the World in 50 Years
By Richard YaDeau, Bailli Commandeur
From the Twin Cities' highest vantage point, the Minneapolis Baillage
of the Chaîne des Rôtísseurs gathered to celebrate
this new millennium with a 40th birthday party and inductions into
our growing chapter.
Peter Hanowich, Bailli Provincial, Midwest inducted Maitre Rotisseur Traiteur Erin Bailey, Chevalier Robert Estes, Professionel du Vin Theodore Farrell, Dame de la Chaine Paulette Good, Dame de la Chaine Patricia Lindquist, Chevalier Ned Nippoldt, Chevalier Robert Schwartzbauer and Chevalier Gary Snyder. Further, he recognized and elevated John Schumacher and Michael Swisher to the rank of Commandeur.
The dramatic flair of a great table in a great hall spoke to the human
spirit about this celebration. Conseiller Culinaire Honoraire Gerard
Viardin honored us all by creating a dinner as expansive and perfectly
defined as this celebration of "50e Anniversaire de la Renaissance
de la Chaîne des Rôtísseurs" and the fortieth
anniversary of the Chaine in the United States deserved.
In keeping with the Chaîne des Rôtísseurs's international heritage, our theme was "Around the World in 50 Years," with each course introduced by heralds in the respective countries' raiment.
A "Beefeater" called us to the opening course of roasted veal kidney scented with lemon thyme on the morel base, an inspired presentation. The kidney preparation was delicate and its nuances could be appreciated without a single flaw or misstep. Blest with the richness of the morel-graced sauce, this course immediately announced to the entire bailliage that we were in the hands of a master.
A young "geisha" with a touch of haiku sang of a treat to dazzle the eyes and tease every element of taste: seafood carpaccio on a black plate with its wafer-thin medallions created a palate of colors.
The warm fish entrée reflected all the skills that traditional French training brings to the culinary repertoire. Flavors of the truffle lightly scented the Dover sole as it lay on the leek quiche, a chorus of ethereal lightness in sharp distinction to the carpaccio.
An "Austrian Delicatessen" of suckling pig and sauerkraut ravioli (!) was a surprise in every way. No one expected either its lightness or such a panoply of flavors. It satisfied without overwhelming.
Beautiful hand-blown goblets displayed green cardamom and vanilla sorbet, both a feast for the eyes and a perfect palate cleanser.
America: a unique country with its own heritage. What other then buffalo, prepared as a fork-tender delicacy, exceeding beef preparations of even the highest quality. No one recognized the sauce as homemade ketchup, a term that firmly belies the subtleness, richness, textures and flavors inherent in it.
Concluding a world tour of humankind's varied appetites proved to be the greatest
challenge. A spun sugar dome encapsulated the dessert carrying forth
the round-the-world theme. A trio of creations: Banana Tarte Tatin,
a Napoleon of green tea ice cream and Halwa, and then the chocolate
bags with Praline Fruits - each satisfying in its own right, complemented
by its companions.
It was our privilege to toast the Chaine's entry to the new millennium and to celebrate its birthday under the auspices of a skilled staff inspired by a Chaine member of International note. Executive Chef Robert Ulrich and the Marquette Hotel demonstrated that our international organization survives because of those with the skill to raise cuisine to heights that exceed the recall of even the most seasoned confrere.
Conseiller Culinaire Honoraire Gerard Viardin,
Host Robert Ulrich, Executive Chef
Stephane Cattelin, Banquet Manager
Menu
Reception
Hurlingham Brut N/V Taittinger
Spring in Britain
Lemon Thyme roasted Veal Kidney, Spring Pea and Morel Salad
Simi Sauvignon Blanc, Sonoma
Asian Adventure
Carpaccio of Seafood Sausage, Pineapple Ginger Sake Vinaigrette
French Delicacies
Olive Oil scented Dover Sole, Black Truffle young Leek Quiche and
Sugar Pea Puree
Chateau Graville Lacoste 1998, Graves, France
Austrian Delicatessan
Suckling Pig Three Ways, Sauerkraut Ravioli and Caraway infused
Jus
Oberman Pinot Noir 1996, Germany
Indian Intermezzo
Green Cardamon and Vanilla Yogurt Sorbet
Wild Wild West
House smoked Buffalo, Homemade Ketchup crisped Potato Hay and Marrow
Demi Glaze
Conn Valley Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 1992, California
Around the World
Carousel of Banana Tarte Tatin, Napoleon of Green Tea Ice Cream
and Carrot Halwa, Chocolate Bags with Praline Fruits
Royal de Neuville, Anjou, Loire Valley, France