January 19, 2008 - Windows on Minnesota,
Celebrating Bordeaux (Cont'd)
Reflections on 1986 Bordeaux
by Chevalier Paul Campbell
Bailli Honoraire Bob Corneliusand Chevalier Paul Campbell
When Gerard Viardin graciously asked if I’d like to participate in "pre-tasting" the red Bordeaux wines prior to our Chaîne dinner at Windows on Minnesota, I jumped at the chance. Seldom does one have the opportunity to taste through a complete case of wine at one time, especially older wines of this pedigree. I’ve certainly had multiple bottles of the same wine, opened over a period of several years, and we frequently open two or more bottles of the same wine for a large group, but I’d never had this chance to try all of the bottles from older, well-stored cases of wine at one time.
I thought I knew about what to expect, having previously had many ’86 Bordeaux, and having tried two of these wines in the past. My expectation was that the Château Gloria (St. Julien) would be beyond its prime, the Château Certan de May (Pomerol) would be about at peak, and the Château Lafite Rothschild (Pauillac) would still be quite young. But, when talking about older wines, the general rule is that there are no great vintages or great producers, only great bottles. Too many bad things can happen after the cork goes into the bottle to be able to predict with any certainty. 1986 in Bordeaux was a very good vintage, but the wines are known for being very tight and highly tannic. Arguments have arisen as to whether the wines will live long enough for the tannins to soften while there is still enough fruit to be balanced and enjoyable.
Looking at the bottles, I did not see any signs of leakage, or of bulging or depressed corks, and the ullage looked very slight, so it was obvious that the bottles had been well stored. We began pulling corks - a delicate task, as many of the corks were sealed tightly in the neck, and could be soft or even crumbling. Although some of the corks split and broke, we successfully extracted all of them with only one small piece left behind in one bottle. Not sure how much of the wine we’d go through, and not wanting unused bottles of opened wine, we left several bottles of each wine unopened.
We began pouring very small amounts from each bottle. Our task was to check for flaws to assure that only good wines would be poured at table. While many things can affect older wines, there are four common flaws that we were looking for:
- TCA, which leads to a musty, wet cardboard aroma and a metallic, fruitless taste. Wines with TCA are referred to as being "corked" or "cork tainted". Estimates vary, but many believe that up to 10% of all wines with natural corks are "corked".
- Volatile Acidity, or "VA", which has an acidic smell, like vinegar or nail polish,
- Brettanomyces, or "Bret", which is a yeast that can lead to a panoply of stinky and bizarre smells (thankfully rare in Bordeaux wines),
- Heat damage and/or oxidation, which will show as pruney, fruitless, madeirised, or sherry-like aromas and taste.
Tasting is not a significant part of this work - sight and smell are what is of most value. Checking for color, we could see that the Gloria and the Lafite showed the lightest color, with the Gloria having the most "bricking". The Certan de May looked darkest, as would be expected, since this wine, unlike the others, is all Merlot and Cabernet Franc, with no Cabernet Sauvignon. The colors were very consistent, and nothing indicated any flaws. Smelling the wines, a great deal of bottle variation became obvious. Particularly in the Gloria and Lafite, the wines ranged from slight amounts of VA to nearly perfect, with varying degrees of fruit showing through. The strongest fruit showed up in the Certan de May, which surprised me in comparison to the Lafite. I was pleasantly surprised by the Gloria, which was no where near "over the hill", with a complex, classic Médoc nose. The Lafite, while also showing much variation from bottle to bottle, showed the wonderful classic aromas of tobacco, lead pencil and damp earth so typical of this regal wine, and indicated that we were in for a real treat. Unfortunately, we were nearly through the lineup when the second to last bottle of Lafite turned out to be "corked", and badly so. Not bad though, considering it was the 25th bottle opened.
In the mouth, the Gloria was fairly light and slightly lacking in acidity. Overall, however, it was surprisingly pleasant for an "unclassified" Bordeaux at 21 years of age, and should prove a worthy match for its pedigreed partners. The Certan de May tasted very young, with wonderful length of plum fruit lingering behind the firm but sweet tannins. I love Cabernet Franc, with its lavender and violet aromas, and this wine is a favorite of mine for that reason. The Lafite was beautifully balanced, smooth and complex, but seemed very closed and ungiving behind the firm tannins. Hopefully, some time in the decanter would bring out the best.
Having finished our work, we returned to the pre-dinner reception anxious to enjoy the wines matched with the spectacular dinner Gerard and his staff were preparing.
At table, the bottle variation we’d observed earlier presented itself again. Since the wait staff poured the ladies’ glasses first, we men were poured wine from different bottles, so I allowed myself to try my wife’s wine as well as my own with each course. Clearly, the old saying proved true, as each bottle was an individual, with its own characteristics, good or not-so-good. Gerard’s wisdom in wanting to test the wines in advance proved its value when an additional bottle of the Gloria was opened and poured by the wait staff, and it turned out to be badly "corked". I guess it was a good thing that the bottle was poured at our table where we immediately recognized the flaw. The next bottle was in great shape.
Older wines like these are meant to be enjoyed with food, and they definitely showed their stuff at table. The Gloria exceeded all expectations, and was a great match with the pheasant terrine. This example proves that buying "lesser" wines in good vintages is a good strategy. The Certan de May was, for me, the "wine of the night". Perhaps it was the marvelous lamb dish for which this wine was the perfect match. At its peak now, this smokey and muscular wine with its black currant and violet flavors was wonderful. The Lafite, I think, was still too young, and needed more time in the decanter to open up and show its stuff. You can never guess these things in advance, unfortunately. I found it to be brooding and tight, yet with a smoothness and complexity in the mouth. It showed great potential, but was really holding back. It evolved considerably while in the glass (although mine didn’t last long!), with wonderful aromas and tastes of cedar, cassis and a little cinnamon. If I was fortunate enough to have any of this wine in my cellar, I would try my next bottle in another ten years or so, but it was still a rare treat for a wine lover.
Thanks to Gerard Viardin and Chef Mark Stankey for preparing a memorable meal to showcase these marvelous wines.